This guide walks you through hanging outdoor string lights in a garden, from measuring the space and choosing the right hardware to suspending the lights and connecting them safely to power. By the end, you will have a set of lights that is anchored properly, survives wind and rain, and lights your seating area or pathway evenly.
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addlon 100FT Outdoor String Lights with Remote, ST38 LED, Waterproof, Dimmable
- ✔ Length: 100 ft
- ✔ Bulb Type: ST38 LED (E12 base)
- ✔ Remote Control Range: 50 ft
MGVIH 100ft Outdoor LED String Lights with Remote, ST38 Shatterproof Waterproof Patio Lights
- ✔ Length: 100 ft / 30 m
- ✔ Bulb Type: ST38 LED
- ✔ Bulb Count: 37 bulbs + 2 spare bulbs
Outdoor String Lights, 55 FT with 25 G40 LED Bulbs, IP65 Waterproof Patio Lights
- ✔ Length: 55 ft (50+5)
- ✔ Bulb Count: 25+2 (27 total)
- ✔ Bulb Type: G40 LED
This is a beginner-level task. No electrical knowledge is needed beyond plugging into an outdoor-rated outlet; the only skills required are basic measuring, drilling or driving a hook, and climbing a ladder safely. Expect the work itself to take two to four hours depending on how many anchor points you need to install and how far the lights run from power.
The guide assumes you are hanging commercial-style string lights (bulbs spaced along a suspended cord) in a backyard or garden. It covers both cord suspension between fixed anchor points and pole-based setups for open lawn areas.
Difficulty: Beginner | Time: 2-4 hours (plus shopping time)
What You’ll Need
Tools & Materials:
- Tape measure
- Ladder (tall enough to reach your highest anchor point comfortably)
- Drill with a small drill bit, or a screwdriver
- Pencil or chalk
- Heavy-duty zip ties or outdoor-rated S-hooks
- Guide wire (stainless steel wire rope or braided nylon cord, rated 50 lb or more) if suspending lights between distant points
- Wire rope grips (small clamps) if using steel cable
- Stud finder or masonry bit, depending on your mounting surface
- Outdoor-rated extension cord with GFCI protection, if lights do not reach the outlet
Knowledge:
- Basic ladder safety: stable footing, no overreaching, a second person to steady the ladder for heights above 8 feet
- Ability to locate a wall stud or drill into masonry
- Understanding of IP rating basics: look for IP44 or higher, and IP65 for exposed locations
Buy lights before you buy hardware. The bulb spacing, total cord length, and weight of the set determine which suspension method you need. Also check whether your lights are parallel (parallel-wired), meaning the rest of the string stays lit if one bulb fails — this matters for long runs in hard-to-reach places.
If you rent or cannot drill into walls or fences, plan for freestanding poles in weighted planters instead of fixed anchors.
addlon 100FT Outdoor String Lights with Remote, ST38 LED, Waterproof, Dimmable
For most gardens, the addlon 100FT set hits the sweet spot between reach, control, and dependability. The ST38 Edison-style LED bulbs produce that warm, filament-style glow that reads as intentional design rather than holiday decoration, and the 100-foot length is enough to span a typical patio, wrap a pergola, or trace a fence line in a single run.What pushes this set to the top of our list is the remote control with a 50-foot range, covering on/off, dimming, timers, and multiple lighting modes. Compared with the 55-foot G40 set, which requires a separately purchased dimmer and manual operation every evening, the addlon lets you dial the mood from a lounge chair — a genuinely different ownership experience for the same category of product.Configuration is where it edges out the MGVIH as well. Both are 100-foot strands, but the addlon supports connecting up to four strands for 200 feet from a single plug, and it comes from a brand with an established presence in outdoor lighting, which matters for replacement parts and support. The one-year quality support warranty is a reasonable safety net.The tradeoffs are modest but real: the remote and adapter are separate accessories, so losing the remote means a replacement hunt, and the timer resets if power is interrupted. Neither is a dealbreaker, but if your area has frequent outages, plan to reprogram occasionally.
Pros:
- Remote control with dimming, timer, and lighting modes from up to 50 feet away
- Connectable up to 200 feet from a single plug for large gardens
- Weather-resistant, shatter-resistant bulbs built for year-round outdoor use
- Energy-efficient LEDs keep running costs and bulb replacements low
Cons:
- Remote and adapter are separate accessories if replacement is needed
- Timer must be reset after any power interruption
- No round globe bulb option for those wanting classic café styling
Best for: Homeowners with medium-to-large gardens who want dimmable, schedulable lighting across a patio, pergola, or fence line without walking to the plug.
Not ideal for: Buyers who want round globe-style ambience or a short, simple strand for a small balcony.
Bottom line: The most complete package for a garden: long reach, remote convenience, and a dependable brand make it our default recommendation.
“The most complete package for a garden: long reach, remote convenience, and a dependable brand make it our default recommendation.”
MGVIH 100ft Outdoor LED String Lights with Remote, ST38 Shatterproof Waterproof Patio Lights
Where the addlon wins on brand confidence, the MGVIH 100ft set wins on spec density. It matches the category leaders on the fundamentals — 100 feet of ST38 bulbs, IP65 waterproofing, shatterproof PET construction — and then goes further on control. Dimming in four steps from 25% to 100% gives you genuine mood range, and the three lighting modes (steady, breath, and flash) plus 3- and 5-hour timers cover essentially every evening scenario a garden presents.Compared with the addlon, the differences are subtle rather than structural. The MGVIH specifies a fixed 2700K warm white temperature, which is the safe, flattering choice for plants and skin tones, but there’s no alternative color option if you ever want a cooler or festive look. The addlon’s modes and timer function similarly, so the real differentiators become brand reputation and the MGVIH’s slightly tighter spec disclosure — including a stated heat tolerance up to 158°F, useful for strands strung over sun-baked patios.Against the 55-foot G40 set, the advantage is straightforward: more length, more bulbs (37 plus 2 spares), and full remote control where the G40 offers none. The G40 counters with easier large-scale expansion, but for a one-strand garden installation under 100 feet, the MGVIH simply does more out of the box.The honest caveat is the relatively unknown brand. Long-term support and replacement availability are less certain than with addlon, so this pick makes the most sense for buyers who prioritize features today over ecosystem support tomorrow.
Pros:
- Four-step dimming (25–100%) for precise ambience control
- Three lighting modes plus 3/5-hour timer functions
- Shatterproof PET bulbs rated IP65 waterproof and heat-tolerant to 158°F
- Includes 37 bulbs plus 2 spares on a full 100-foot strand
Cons:
- Fixed 2700K warm white with no color options
- MGVIH is a relatively unknown brand compared with established lighting names
- No multi-strand expansion beyond the included length
Best for: Feature-focused buyers who want maximum dimming control and lighting modes per dollar in a single 100-foot installation.
Not ideal for: Shoppers who prioritize established brand support or want color-changing options.
Bottom line: The most features per strand in this lineup — a smart pick if brand recognition matters less to you than dimming range and modes.
“The most features per strand in this lineup — a smart pick if brand recognition matters less to you than dimming range and modes.”
Outdoor String Lights, 55 FT with 25 G40 LED Bulbs, IP65 Waterproof Patio Lights
There’s a reason round G40 globe bulbs remain the visual shorthand for garden parties: their soft, evenly distributed glow flatters outdoor spaces in a way elongated Edison bulbs can’t quite replicate. This 55-foot set delivers that look with 25 bulbs spaced 2 feet apart, plus two spares, and its shatterproof plastic construction means a stray football or gust-driven branch won’t end the evening.Its standout capability is connectivity — up to 14 strands end-to-end. Neither 100-foot remote option comes close to this expansion ceiling; the addlon maxes out at 200 feet and the MGVIH doesn’t extend at all. If your garden plan involves tracing a long perimeter, lighting a pathway, or covering multiple zones from one outlet, this is the set built for that job.The tradeoff is control. There’s no remote, no timer, and no lighting modes — dimming requires a separately purchased compatible dimmer, and scheduling means adding a smart plug. The built-in hanging hooks are small, so secure installation across a garden may call for supplemental hardware like guide wires or zip ties, especially over spans where the strand carries its own weight.Where this pick makes the most sense is a classic, set-it-and-forget-it installation: you hang it once, flip the switch at dusk, and enjoy the glow. Compared with the MGVIH, you give up modern conveniences; compared with the addlon, you give up 45 feet of initial length. What you gain is a timeless look and unmatched scalability.
Pros:
- Round G40 globe bulbs deliver classic café-style garden ambience
- Connects up to 14 strands for very large or multi-zone layouts
- IP65 waterproof shatterproof bulbs safe around kids and pets
- Energy-efficient LEDs rated for up to 30,000 hours with independent bulb operation
Cons:
- Dimmer sold separately; no remote, timer, or modes included
- Small built-in hooks may need additional hardware for secure hanging
- Shorter initial length (55 ft) than the 100-foot remote options
Best for: Gardeners designing a large or multi-zone lighting layout who love classic globe-bulb ambience and don’t need remote control.
Not ideal for: Anyone who wants dimming, timers, or mode controls without buying extra accessories.
Bottom line: The traditionalist’s choice — unmatched expandability and globe-bulb charm, if you’re willing to add your own dimming and scheduling.
“The traditionalist’s choice — unmatched expandability and globe-bulb charm, if you’re willing to add your own dimming and scheduling.”
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Before You Start
Do three things before installing anything permanent. First, plug the lights in on the ground at night and check every bulb works — replacing a dead bulb is far easier at ground level than on a ladder. Second, confirm your outlet is GFCI-protected (press the test button; it should cut power). If it is not, use a portable GFCI adapter. Third, decide the light pattern before you drill: a single straight run, a zigzag (V-pattern) between two points, or a perimeter loop around a seating area. The zigzag pattern covers a wide area with fewer anchor points and hides sag naturally, so it suits most gardens.
Never use indoor string lights outdoors. Indoor sets are not sealed against moisture and present a shock hazard the first time it rains. Look for an IP44 rating or higher and a tag marked ‘suitable for wet locations’.
Plan for sag. All cords droop under their own weight and more in rain. String your guide wire or the light cord itself with a gentle upward bow at each anchor point so the finished curve dips where you want it, not onto people’s heads. Aim for a finished height of at least 8 feet above walking areas and 11 feet if people might carry umbrellas or tall items.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Measure the space and calculate cord length
Measure the distance between each pair of anchor points with your tape measure. Add 10 to 15 percent extra length to each span for the droop curve and for securing the ends. Add another 2 to 3 feet if the plug end must travel down a post or along a fence to reach the outlet. Write down the total.
If you plan a zigzag, measure each diagonal segment separately — a zigzag between two points 20 feet apart at heights 10 feet and 8 feet consumes noticeably more cord than a straight run.
Tip: Buy one set longer than your calculation, or buy connectable sets. Running 5 feet short at the end of the job is the single most common string light failure.
Check: Your total planned cord length exceeds your measured need by at least 10 percent, and you have noted the plug’s route to the outlet.
Step 2: Choose and mark your anchor points
Walk the area and identify where each end of each span will attach: house eaves, fence posts, a pergola beam, a sturdy tree branch, or freestanding poles. Mark each spot with pencil or chalk at your chosen height, keeping all marks level within a few inches of each other.
Check that each anchor can hold weight. A fence post set in concrete or a structural wall is fine; a thin fence panel rail or a rotting post is not. For trees, choose a branch at least 3 inches thick and plan to attach with a loop of rope or an eye bolt rather than nailing into the trunk.
Tip: Keep the first anchor point as close to the outlet as possible — it shortens the cord run exposed to weather and foot traffic.
Check: Every marked point sits on solid material, and the marked heights leave at least 8 feet of clearance below the planned lowest point of the sag.
Step 3: Install the anchors
Drill a pilot hole slightly smaller than your hook or eye bolt at each marked point. Screw in a heavy-duty cup hook, eye bolt, or lag-eye screw by hand until only the hook curve remains. On masonry or brick, drill with a masonry bit, insert a plastic wall plug, then drive the hook in. On trees or large branches, wrap a loop of rope around the branch and hang an S-hook from it.
For open lawn with no structures, plant a 10-foot 4×4 or metal pole in a large planter filled with concrete or compacted gravel, and fit a hook near the top before setting the pole.
Tip: Tug each installed hook hard downward and sideways before trusting it. A hook that pulls out under a hand pull will fail under a wet, windy cord.
Check: Each anchor holds a firm downward pull without shifting, loosening, or cracking the surrounding material.
Step 4: Run the guide wire (for spans over 20 feet or heavy cords)
Attach steel wire rope or strong braided cord to the first anchor using a wire rope grip or a tight knot. Run it to the next anchor, pull it hand-taut with a slight upward bow at the midpoint, and secure it. Cut off the excess. Repeat for each span. Do not wrench the wire guitar-string tight — an overly taut wire transfers enormous load to the anchors in wind.
Tip: Skip the guide wire entirely for light-duty LED strings under 20 feet per span; you can hang those directly from hook to hook.
Check: The wire forms a shallow, even curve between anchors with no sharp kinks, and it does not move the anchors when you pluck it.
Step 5: Hang the lights
Attach the light cord to the first anchor using a zip tie or S-hook, working from the ladder while a helper feeds the string from the ground (or with the coiled set hung over your shoulder). Fasten the cord to the guide wire with a zip tie every 2 to 3 feet as you work along the run, or drape it over hooks directly if no guide wire is used. Align the manufacturer’s built-in hanging loops on the cord upward — these are the reinforced points meant to carry the weight.
Form a gentle sag between anchors. Leave a small loop of slack (about 6 inches of extra cord) near the plug end so the connection is never under tension.
Tip: Cut zip ties only after you are happy with the curve; it is easier to redo a tie than to retie a whole run.
Check: The cord hangs in smooth, deliberate curves, all bulbs face downward or outward, and nothing pulls against the plug connection.
Step 6: Connect power safely
Plug the lights into the outdoor GFCI outlet. If you need an extension cord, choose one rated for outdoor use with a wattage rating comfortably above the light set’s total draw (printed on the box or plug). Keep all plug connections off the ground — hang them from a hook or enclose them in a purpose-made weatherproof connection box. Route cords along fences or posts with zip ties rather than across walkways.
Tip: LED strings draw a fraction of what incandescent bulbs do and allow far longer connected runs. If you are still shopping, LED is the safer and cheaper long-term choice.
Check: The lights illuminate with no flickering, no warm plugs, and no exposed metal at any connection.
Step 7: Test at night and adjust
Wait for darkness, switch the lights on, and view the garden from your main seating spot and from the house. Look for dark gaps, bulbs glaring directly at eye level, and spans that sag too low. Adjust zip ties, raise anchors, or reposition bulbs until the light falls evenly across the area you use.
Tip: Bulbs pointing sideways create glare; twist each socket so the bulb hangs plumb and light shines downward.
Check: From every seated position, light pools evenly over the area, no bulb shines directly into eyes, and the cords look intentional rather than accidental.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Stringing the cord dead straight between anchors — Always install with deliberate slack and a planned curve. A straight, tight cord has nowhere to flex in wind, concentrates force on the anchors, and snaps or pulls out hardware in the first storm.
- Using indoor lights or non-weatherproof connections outdoors — Check for IP44+ or ‘wet location’ rating on the packaging before buying, and keep every plug junction off the ground and under cover or in a sealed connection box.
- Anchoring into weak material such as fence rails or fascia trim — Test every anchor with a hard hand pull before hanging lights, and choose fence posts, structural walls, or poles set in weighted bases instead of thin panels or decorative trim.
- Underestimating total cord length — Measure each span, add 10 to 15 percent for droop, add the plug’s route to the outlet, and buy connectable sets so you can extend if needed.
Troubleshooting
Problem: Part or all of the string will not light
Solution: Check the GFCI outlet has not tripped (press reset), verify the extension cord carries power with a phone charger, then inspect bulbs. On parallel-wired sets one dead bulb does not darken the run, so a dark section usually means a damaged socket or a broken wire — replace that segment or use the set’s spare fuse in the plug.
Problem: The cord sags lower than planned after rain
Solution: Wet cords are heavier. Tighten the guide wire slightly or move a zip tie up, but leave some curve. If sag keeps developing, the guide wire was too thin — replace with heavier wire rope or add a midpoint anchor.
Problem: An anchor pulls loose in wind
Solution: Remove the failed hook, drill a new pilot hole 2 inches away into solid material, install a longer or thicker lag-eye screw with a wall plug for masonry, and re-hang. Add a midpoint support to reduce the load on that anchor.
Problem: Lights trip the outlet repeatedly
Solution: Unplug everything, dry all connections, and inspect for water in a socket or damaged insulation. Replace the affected set if water has entered sealed components; if the trip continues with dry, intact equipment, have an electrician check the outlet.
What Success Looks Like
The installation is successful when the lights switch on reliably from the outdoor outlet, every bulb is lit, and the cords hang in smooth planned curves with at least 8 feet of clearance above walking areas. All hardware holds firm under a hand pull, every plug connection sits off the ground and protected from rain, and no cord crosses a walkway or sits where a mower or trimmer can reach it. Viewed from your main seating area at night, the light falls evenly across the space with no dark gaps and no bulbs glaring at eye level. After the first heavy wind or rain, recheck the anchors and sag — no movement beyond a slight settle means the job is done properly.
Next Steps
Consider adding a smart plug or outdoor mechanical timer so the lights switch on automatically at dusk and off at bedtime — this protects bulb life and cuts running cost. Inspect the installation twice a year: check anchors for rust or loosening, look for cracked bulb sockets, and clear debris from connections. Replace individual bulbs as they fail rather than waiting for the whole set. If you want to extend the lighting later, buy connectable sets from the same product line so joins stay weatherproof and the total wattage stays within the manufacturer’s rated limit. If you find yourself wanting more than three connected runs or any buried wiring, that is the point to bring in a qualified electrician for a dedicated outdoor circuit.
Frequently Asked Questions
How high should outdoor string lights hang?
Aim for at least 8 feet above any walking or seating area, and around 10 to 11 feet if people pass underneath carrying umbrellas or garden tools. Hanging higher also spreads the light more evenly, though very high runs in tall gardens may need higher-lumen bulbs to avoid a dim effect at ground level.
Can I attach string lights directly to a tree?
Yes, if the branch is at least 3 inches thick and healthy. Loop a rope or strap around the branch and hang the cord from an S-hook rather than screwing into the tree — hardware embedded in a growing tree causes damage and the tree will eventually swallow it. Check the loop each year and loosen it if the branch has grown.
How many strings can I connect end to end?
Follow the manufacturer’s limit printed on the packaging — typically 3 to 5 sets for incandescent and many more for LED. Exceeding the limit overloads the cord and plug, which creates heat at the connections. If the packaging does not state a limit, keep the total wattage of all connected sets below 80 percent of the outlet circuit’s rating.
Do I need to take the lights down in winter?
Weatherproof sets rated IP44 or higher can stay up year-round in most climates, but expect shorter bulb life in harsh winters. In areas with heavy snow, ice, or strong seasonal storms, taking the sets down extends their life considerably. If you leave them up, do a spring inspection of anchors, cords, and sockets before regular use resumes.
Can I hang string lights without drilling anything?
Yes. Use freestanding poles set in planters filled with concrete or gravel, or use no-drip adhesive hooks on smooth painted surfaces, or clamp hooks onto a pergola or gazebo frame. Freestanding poles in weighted bases are the sturdiest drill-free option and can be repositioned whenever you rearrange the garden.
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